Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products

Synopsis Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics a...

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Veröffentlicht in:International journal of cosmetic science Jg. 37; H. 5; S. 455 - 464
Hauptverfasser: Zillich, O. V., Schweiggert-Weisz, U., Eisner, P., Kerscher, M.
Format: Journal Article
Sprache:Englisch
Veröffentlicht: England Blackwell Publishing Ltd 01.10.2015
Wiley Subscription Services, Inc
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ISSN:0142-5463, 1468-2494, 1468-2494
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Abstract Synopsis Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti‐ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti‐ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed. Résumé Les polyphénols sont des métabolites secondaires des plantes ayant une activité anti‐oxydante, anti‐inflammatoire et antimicrobienne. Ils sont distribués partout dans le règne végétal; par exemple, le thé vert et les pépins de raisin contiennent des quantités élevées. Les extraits polyphénoliques sont des ingrédients intéressants pour les produits cosmétiques et la pharmacie en raison de leurs propriétés biologiques bénéfiques. Cette revue résume les effets des polyphénols dans le contexte de l'activité anti‐ vieillissement. Nous avons exploré les études in vitro, qui étudient l'activité anti‐oxydante, l'inhibition de protéases du derme et l'activité photoprotectrice, et qui sont principalement étudiées en utilisant des lignées cellulaires des fibroblastes dermiques ou de kératinocytes épidermiques. Les effets négatifs possibles de polyphénols sont également discutés. En outre, certains aspects physico‐chimiques, à savoir les interactions possibles avec des émulsifiants et l'influence de la formulation cosmétique sur la biodisponibilité au niveau de la peau, sont signalés. Enfin, quelques études cliniques, qui couvrent l'action antivieillissement des polyphénols sur la peau après l'application topique ont été examinées.
AbstractList Synopsis Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.Original Abstract: Resume Les polyphenols sont des metabolites secondaires des plantes ayant une activite anti-oxydante, anti-inflammatoire et antimicrobienne. Ils sont distribues partout dans le regne vegetal; par exemple, le the vert et les pepins de raisin contiennent des quantites elevees. Les extraits polyphenoliques sont des ingredients interessants pour les produits cosmetiques et la pharmacie en raison de leurs proprietes biologiques benefiques. Cette revue resume les effets des polyphenols dans le contexte de l'activite anti- vieillissement. Nous avons explore les etudes in vitro, qui etudient l'activite anti-oxydante, l'inhibition de proteases du derme et l'activite photoprotectrice, et qui sont principalement etudiees en utilisant des lignees cellulaires des fibroblastes dermiques ou de keratinocytes epidermiques. Les effets negatifs possibles de polyphenols sont egalement discutes. En outre, certains aspects physico-chimiques, a savoir les interactions possibles avec des emulsifiants et l'influence de la formulation cosmetique sur la biodisponibilite au niveau de la peau, sont signales. Enfin, quelques etudes cliniques, qui couvrent l'action antivieillissement des polyphenols sur la peau apres l'application topique ont ete examinees.
Synopsis Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti‐ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti‐ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed. Résumé Les polyphénols sont des métabolites secondaires des plantes ayant une activité anti‐oxydante, anti‐inflammatoire et antimicrobienne. Ils sont distribués partout dans le règne végétal; par exemple, le thé vert et les pépins de raisin contiennent des quantités élevées. Les extraits polyphénoliques sont des ingrédients intéressants pour les produits cosmétiques et la pharmacie en raison de leurs propriétés biologiques bénéfiques. Cette revue résume les effets des polyphénols dans le contexte de l'activité anti‐ vieillissement. Nous avons exploré les études in vitro, qui étudient l'activité anti‐oxydante, l'inhibition de protéases du derme et l'activité photoprotectrice, et qui sont principalement étudiées en utilisant des lignées cellulaires des fibroblastes dermiques ou de kératinocytes épidermiques. Les effets négatifs possibles de polyphénols sont également discutés. En outre, certains aspects physico‐chimiques, à savoir les interactions possibles avec des émulsifiants et l'influence de la formulation cosmétique sur la biodisponibilité au niveau de la peau, sont signalés. Enfin, quelques études cliniques, qui couvrent l'action antivieillissement des polyphénols sur la peau après l'application topique ont été examinées.
Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti‐ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti‐ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed. Les polyphénols sont des métabolites secondaires des plantes ayant une activité anti‐oxydante, anti‐inflammatoire et antimicrobienne. Ils sont distribués partout dans le règne végétal; par exemple, le thé vert et les pépins de raisin contiennent des quantités élevées. Les extraits polyphénoliques sont des ingrédients intéressants pour les produits cosmétiques et la pharmacie en raison de leurs propriétés biologiques bénéfiques. Cette revue résume les effets des polyphénols dans le contexte de l'activité anti‐ vieillissement. Nous avons exploré les études in vitro , qui étudient l'activité anti‐oxydante, l'inhibition de protéases du derme et l'activité photoprotectrice, et qui sont principalement étudiées en utilisant des lignées cellulaires des fibroblastes dermiques ou de kératinocytes épidermiques. Les effets négatifs possibles de polyphénols sont également discutés. En outre, certains aspects physico‐chimiques, à savoir les interactions possibles avec des émulsifiants et l'influence de la formulation cosmétique sur la biodisponibilité au niveau de la peau, sont signalés. Enfin, quelques études cliniques, qui couvrent l'action antivieillissement des polyphénols sur la peau après l'application topique ont été examinées.
Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.
Synopsis Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed. Résumé Les polyphénols sont des métabolites secondaires des plantes ayant une activité anti-oxydante, anti-inflammatoire et antimicrobienne. Ils sont distribués partout dans le règne végétal; par exemple, le thé vert et les pépins de raisin contiennent des quantités élevées. Les extraits polyphénoliques sont des ingrédients intéressants pour les produits cosmétiques et la pharmacie en raison de leurs propriétés biologiques bénéfiques. Cette revue résume les effets des polyphénols dans le contexte de l'activité anti- vieillissement. Nous avons exploré les études in vitro, qui étudient l'activité anti-oxydante, l'inhibition de protéases du derme et l'activité photoprotectrice, et qui sont principalement étudiées en utilisant des lignées cellulaires des fibroblastes dermiques ou de kératinocytes épidermiques. Les effets négatifs possibles de polyphénols sont également discutés. En outre, certains aspects physico-chimiques, à savoir les interactions possibles avec des émulsifiants et l'influence de la formulation cosmétique sur la biodisponibilité au niveau de la peau, sont signalés. Enfin, quelques études cliniques, qui couvrent l'action antivieillissement des polyphénols sur la peau après l'application topique ont été examinées.
Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.
Author Eisner, P.
Kerscher, M.
Zillich, O. V.
Schweiggert-Weisz, U.
Author_xml – sequence: 1
  givenname: O. V.
  surname: Zillich
  fullname: Zillich, O. V.
  email: olesya.zillich@ivv.fraunhofer.de
  organization: Fraunhofer Institute for Process Engineering and Packaging, Giggenhauser Str. 35, D-85354, Freising, Germany
– sequence: 2
  givenname: U.
  surname: Schweiggert-Weisz
  fullname: Schweiggert-Weisz, U.
  organization: Fraunhofer Institute for Process Engineering and Packaging, Giggenhauser Str. 35, D-85354, Freising, Germany
– sequence: 3
  givenname: P.
  surname: Eisner
  fullname: Eisner, P.
  organization: Fraunhofer Institute for Process Engineering and Packaging, Giggenhauser Str. 35, D-85354, Freising, Germany
– sequence: 4
  givenname: M.
  surname: Kerscher
  fullname: Kerscher, M.
  organization: Department of Chemistry, Institute for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, University of Hamburg, Papendamm 21, 20146, Hamburg, Germany
BackLink https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25712493$$D View this record in MEDLINE/PubMed
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Issue 5
Keywords photoprotective activity
polyphenols
antioxidant activity
skin delivery
release
interactions
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2004; 320
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2006
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2010; 83
2012; 92
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2004; 15
2005; 53
2009; 9
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Snippet Synopsis Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the...
Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant...
Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant...
Synopsis Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the...
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SubjectTerms antioxidant activity
Antioxidants
Biological properties
Cosmetics
Green tea
Humans
interactions
Metabolites
Microbial activity
photoprotective activity
Polyphenols
Polyphenols - chemistry
Polyphenols - pharmacology
release
skin delivery
Vitaceae
Title Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products
URI https://api.istex.fr/ark:/67375/WNG-NSZNXJVR-1/fulltext.pdf
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111%2Fics.12218
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25712493
https://www.proquest.com/docview/1709473841
https://www.proquest.com/docview/1709705412
https://www.proquest.com/docview/1717488001
Volume 37
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