Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them

Background Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad‐spectrum visible light...

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Vydané v:International journal of cosmetic science Ročník 42; číslo 4; s. 399 - 406
Hlavní autori: Campiche, R., Curpen, S. J., Lutchmanen‐Kolanthan, V., Gougeon, S., Cherel, M., Laurent, G., Gempeler, M., Schuetz, R.
Médium: Journal Article
Jazyk:English
Vydavateľské údaje: England Wiley Subscription Services, Inc 01.08.2020
John Wiley and Sons Inc
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ISSN:0142-5463, 1468-2494, 1468-2494
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Abstract Background Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad‐spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation in vivo. Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED‐based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients. Method We conducted a randomized, double‐blind and placebo‐controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm−2, 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers’ inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation. Results We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = −16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post‐irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide. Conclusion Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light‐induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation. Resume Contexte La lumière visible, en particulier la lumière bleue, a été identifiée comme un facteur supplémentaire du photo‐vieillissement cutané. Cependant, les études cliniques, démontrant l’effet réel de la lumière bleue sur le photo‐vieillissement, sont encore rares et jusqu’à présent, la plupart des études portaient sur l’influence de la lumière visible à large spectre. Bien qu’il y ait des preuves concernant l’effet sur la pigmentation de peau, les mécanismes sous‐jacents du photo‐vieillissement in vivo sont encore peu clairs. De plus, le besoin d’ingrédients actifs protégeant de manière significative en in vivo contre l’hyperpigmentation induite par la lumière bleu est toujours présent. Notre étude a eu deux objectifs Détecter des changements visibles dans la pigmentation de la peau à la suite d’une irradiation répétée avec de la lumière bleue à base de LED, et réduire la pigmentation à l’aide d’ingrédients actifs adaptés. Méthode Nous avons mené une étude clinique randomisée, à l’aveugle et controlée avec un placebo sur 33 volontaires féminins de phototypes de peau III et IV. Nous avons défini un protocole d’irradiation répétitif à lumière bleue (4 x 60 J cm‐2, 450 nm) sur les avant‐bras intérieurs des volontaires. En utilisant l’imagerie hyperspectrale nous avons évalué l’état de chromophore. En outre, nous avons pris des mesures de couleur et des photographies pour évaluer l’hyperpigmentation de manière visuelle. Résultats Nous avons mesuré des changements significatifs dans le statut de chromophore (p<0.001 par rapport au statut initial), par exemple au niveau de la mélanine, de l’hémoglobine et de la saturation en oxygène, immédiatement après l’irradiation à lumière bleue. De plus, nous avons constaté des changements visibles de couleur de la peau qui ont été exprimés par une diminution significative des valeurs ITA° (delta ITA° valeurs = ‐16.89, p<0.001 par rapport au statut initial pour le groupe placebo), et une augmentation de a* (delta a* = +3.37, p <0.001 par rapport au statut initial pour le groupe placebo) 24 heures après l’irradiation. L’hyperpigmentation et les rougeurs de la peau ont été atténués par une formulation contenant 3% d’un extrait d’algue ainsi que par une formulation contenant 3% de niacinamide. Conclusion Notre étude a établi un protocole efficace et robuste pour étudier à la fois les altérations cutanées induites par la lumière bleue, telles que les changements dans les chromophores de la peau, ainsi que les signes de photo‐vieillissement, tels que l’hyperpigmentation. Enfin, nous avons prouvé qu’un extrait de l’algue Scenedesmus rubescens et la niacinamide (vitamine B3) avaient le potentiel de protéger contre l’hyperpigmentation induite par la lumière bleue. We provide here a method to study blue light induced changes in skin in vivo. We show that an algal extract and niacinamide can mitigate blue light induced visible pigmentation and skin reddening.
AbstractList Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad-spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation in vivo. Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED-based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients. We conducted a randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm , 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers' inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation. We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = -16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post-irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide. Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light-induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation.
Background Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad‐spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation in vivo. Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED‐based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients. Method We conducted a randomized, double‐blind and placebo‐controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm−2, 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers’ inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation. Results We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = −16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post‐irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide. Conclusion Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light‐induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation. Resume Contexte La lumière visible, en particulier la lumière bleue, a été identifiée comme un facteur supplémentaire du photo‐vieillissement cutané. Cependant, les études cliniques, démontrant l’effet réel de la lumière bleue sur le photo‐vieillissement, sont encore rares et jusqu’à présent, la plupart des études portaient sur l’influence de la lumière visible à large spectre. Bien qu’il y ait des preuves concernant l’effet sur la pigmentation de peau, les mécanismes sous‐jacents du photo‐vieillissement in vivo sont encore peu clairs. De plus, le besoin d’ingrédients actifs protégeant de manière significative en in vivo contre l’hyperpigmentation induite par la lumière bleu est toujours présent. Notre étude a eu deux objectifs Détecter des changements visibles dans la pigmentation de la peau à la suite d’une irradiation répétée avec de la lumière bleue à base de LED, et réduire la pigmentation à l’aide d’ingrédients actifs adaptés. Méthode Nous avons mené une étude clinique randomisée, à l’aveugle et controlée avec un placebo sur 33 volontaires féminins de phototypes de peau III et IV. Nous avons défini un protocole d’irradiation répétitif à lumière bleue (4 x 60 J cm‐2, 450 nm) sur les avant‐bras intérieurs des volontaires. En utilisant l’imagerie hyperspectrale nous avons évalué l’état de chromophore. En outre, nous avons pris des mesures de couleur et des photographies pour évaluer l’hyperpigmentation de manière visuelle. Résultats Nous avons mesuré des changements significatifs dans le statut de chromophore (p<0.001 par rapport au statut initial), par exemple au niveau de la mélanine, de l’hémoglobine et de la saturation en oxygène, immédiatement après l’irradiation à lumière bleue. De plus, nous avons constaté des changements visibles de couleur de la peau qui ont été exprimés par une diminution significative des valeurs ITA° (delta ITA° valeurs = ‐16.89, p<0.001 par rapport au statut initial pour le groupe placebo), et une augmentation de a* (delta a* = +3.37, p <0.001 par rapport au statut initial pour le groupe placebo) 24 heures après l’irradiation. L’hyperpigmentation et les rougeurs de la peau ont été atténués par une formulation contenant 3% d’un extrait d’algue ainsi que par une formulation contenant 3% de niacinamide. Conclusion Notre étude a établi un protocole efficace et robuste pour étudier à la fois les altérations cutanées induites par la lumière bleue, telles que les changements dans les chromophores de la peau, ainsi que les signes de photo‐vieillissement, tels que l’hyperpigmentation. Enfin, nous avons prouvé qu’un extrait de l’algue Scenedesmus rubescens et la niacinamide (vitamine B3) avaient le potentiel de protéger contre l’hyperpigmentation induite par la lumière bleue. We provide here a method to study blue light induced changes in skin in vivo. We show that an algal extract and niacinamide can mitigate blue light induced visible pigmentation and skin reddening.
We provide here a method to study blue light induced changes in skin in vivo. We show that an algal extract and niacinamide can mitigate blue light induced visible pigmentation and skin reddening.
Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad-spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation in vivo. Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED-based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients.BACKGROUNDVisible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad-spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation in vivo. Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED-based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients.We conducted a randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm-2 , 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers' inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation.METHODWe conducted a randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm-2 , 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers' inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation.We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = -16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post-irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide.RESULTSWe measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = -16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post-irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide.Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light-induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation.CONCLUSIONOur study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light-induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation.
BackgroundVisible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad‐spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation in vivo.Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED‐based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients.MethodWe conducted a randomized, double‐blind and placebo‐controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm−2, 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers’ inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation.ResultsWe measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = −16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post‐irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide.ConclusionOur study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light‐induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation.
Author Campiche, R.
Laurent, G.
Curpen, S. J.
Schuetz, R.
Lutchmanen‐Kolanthan, V.
Gempeler, M.
Cherel, M.
Gougeon, S.
AuthorAffiliation 2 Centre International de Développement Pharmaceutique (CIDP) BioPark Mauritius SOCOTA Phoenicia Sayed Hossen Road Phoenix 73408 Mauritius
1 DSM Nutritional Products Personal Care & Aroma Wurmisweg 576 Kaiseraugst 4303 Switzerland
3 Newtone Technologies 13 bis Place Jules Ferry Lyon 69006 France
AuthorAffiliation_xml – name: 2 Centre International de Développement Pharmaceutique (CIDP) BioPark Mauritius SOCOTA Phoenicia Sayed Hossen Road Phoenix 73408 Mauritius
– name: 1 DSM Nutritional Products Personal Care & Aroma Wurmisweg 576 Kaiseraugst 4303 Switzerland
– name: 3 Newtone Technologies 13 bis Place Jules Ferry Lyon 69006 France
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  orcidid: 0000-0002-2216-7851
  surname: Campiche
  fullname: Campiche, R.
  email: remo.campiche@dsm.com
  organization: Personal Care & Aroma
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  surname: Curpen
  fullname: Curpen, S. J.
  organization: SOCOTA Phoenicia
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  surname: Lutchmanen‐Kolanthan
  fullname: Lutchmanen‐Kolanthan, V.
  organization: SOCOTA Phoenicia
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  surname: Gougeon
  fullname: Gougeon, S.
  organization: Newtone Technologies
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  givenname: M.
  surname: Cherel
  fullname: Cherel, M.
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– sequence: 8
  givenname: R.
  orcidid: 0000-0003-2410-6128
  surname: Schuetz
  fullname: Schuetz, R.
  organization: Personal Care & Aroma
BackLink https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/32478879$$D View this record in MEDLINE/PubMed
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Copyright 2020 The Authors. published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Société Française de Cosmétologie
2020 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Société Française de Cosmétologie.
2020. This article is published under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ (the “License”). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.
Copyright_xml – notice: 2020 The Authors. published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Société Française de Cosmétologie
– notice: 2020 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Société Française de Cosmétologie.
– notice: 2020. This article is published under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ (the “License”). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.
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DocumentTitleAlternate Blue light on skin
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Issue 4
Keywords niacinamide
skin
hyperpigmentation
Blue light
Scenedesmus rubescens
Language English
License Attribution
2020 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Société Française de Cosmétologie.
This is an open access article under the terms of the http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ License, which permits use, distribution and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
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Snippet Background Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies...
Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the...
BackgroundVisible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies...
We provide here a method to study blue light induced changes in skin in vivo. We show that an algal extract and niacinamide can mitigate blue light induced...
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StartPage 399
SubjectTerms Administration, Cutaneous
Adult
Algae
Blue light
Change detection
Chromophores
Double-Blind Method
Female
Hemoglobin
Humans
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperspectral imaging
In vivo methods and tests
Ingredients
Irradiation
Light
Light emitting diodes
Light irradiation
Melanin
Microalgae
niacinamide
Niacinamide - administration & dosage
Nicotinamide
Nicotinic acid
Original
Oxygen content
Pigmentation
Placebos
Scenedesmus rubescens
Skin
Skin Aging - radiation effects
Skin pigmentation
Skin Pigmentation - radiation effects
Young Adult
Title Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them
URI https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111%2Fics.12637
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/32478879
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Volume 42
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